Adios Ecuador

Well, if  you put all your hopes and dreams in a jar and wake up one morning to find the jar is missing, then you know how we feel about Ecuador.  Impossible to believe that five weeks passed so quickly.  We paid the deposit for our Santa Marianita studio in May of 2010, so we had been thinking about the beach for a long time.  Ecuador was filled with interesting sights, noisy busses, wonderful dinners, incredible beaches, glorious sunsets and the fun of meeting interesting people from around the world.  But something was missing from our time at the beach and it was this. Walking! Exploring the sights at the pace of one foot in front of the other. In Quito we were too sick and some areas were too dangerous do do much walking. In Salinas our hotel was too far from the beach so walking was confined to the malecon. At Santa Marianita the beach was lovely for a morning walk but not all the time because of the tides.   Most days when the tide was out, it was mid afternoon – far too hot for walking.   I know.  I know what you’re thinking! How dare we complain about the heat?

Most Ecuadorians we met were friendly, warm and polite, happy to be of assistance in any circumstance.  Many were friends of friends.  However, we noticed sometimes at the handicraft markets, at the fruit and vegetable markets, in some stores, some taxi drivers, at some tourist sights, often in line-ups, Ecuadorians were not happy to see tourists at all.  In fact we sensed an underlying disdain for our presence on more than one occasion.   We spoke with Denis, Linda’s right hand man who is Ecuadorian, about this.  He said the almost rude apathy found at the markets is typical – they treat all customers like that, including Ecuadorians.  We may have encountered something like this in other tourist destinations but in Ecuador we felt there is an underlying sentiment that the people have ‘had enough’.  Tourists?  Government?  Low wages?  Poor living and working conditions?  High food costs? Enough of what exactly, we're not sure.  

And one more thing that is a concern.  Linda, the lady who owns the guest house, has a guard who lives with his family in a small house behind the property.  The guard has a young daughter about nine years old who often comes to visit Linda and her guests. Linda mentioned with sizeable regret that this little girl does not go to school, very concerning because without an education her future is almost cut and dried.  Maid or prostitute – those are usually the only choices for uneducated girls in rural Ecuador.  Very, very disturbing as the babies having babies cycle repeats itself.   And what do we do about that?

Cruz del Sur

Okay, it’s time to change the subject.  Ha ha just kidding – it’s buses again.  But we are going to elevate bus standards as you know them – think first class on an airplane.  But wait, let’s back up a little.  Donna was reading on Fodor’s website that as of January 17, 2011 Cruz del Sur was offering a new service between Guayaquil and Lima.  Cruz del Sur is a Peruvian Bus Company, one of the highest rated in South America.  Traditionally there are lots of problems with Latin American bus companies, especially with robberies, petty theft, poor security, drunk bus drivers, speeding, poor maintenance and poor road conditions.    

As further testament, feel free to read the following links (part one and part two) if you are interested – called ‘Being Drugged and Left Penniless in Peru’ written by a part time columnist for the NY Times.  The unfortunate situation happened recently to the author.

http://artofbackpacking.com/travel-drugged-robbed-penny-less-peru/

http://artofbackpacking.com/drugged-robbed-penny-less-peru-2/

Anyway, after chasing the sketchy information about the best bus service between Ecuador and Peru around on the internet we were eventually able to book seats online with Cruz del Sur.  March 1st departure Guayaquil to Lima.   The tickets cost about CA$75 per person for the 28 hour trip (less than $3 per hour) and included  complimentary dinner, breakfast and lunch.  Now here’s the double scoop.  The buses are double decker, first class is the lower deck where the seats are larger, only 12 seats configured  2 and 1.  They recline almost completely and have full on leg rests like an airplane.  The upper deck sways more and is less desirable, plus the seats are configured differently and offer a little less room.  Two drivers stay with the bus the entire journey and rotate the driving every four hours.   A flight attendant is also on board, serves the meals and looks after passenger’s needs.  Our attendant spoke some English (although none of the announcements reflected that).  The drivers are able to watch what is going on in both cabins via cameras, and the door to the lower cabin is locked during the night to prevent unlawful entry.  The buses are monitored by GPS at all times.  Two bathrooms, one on each level are cleaned regularly and supplies are updated when necessary.  Cruz del Sur does not hire drivers who drink and their driving speed is limited (except when passing) to 90 kph.  To keep drivers honest, if their speed passes 90 a warning message shows on an LED sign inside both cabins so passengers know.   Pillows and blankets are supplied, music and movies rotate continually at pleasing volume and there is on board Wi-Fi in G3 areas.  When the bus stopped at the border in Peru after leaving Ecuador, passengers had to disembark and enter customs and immigration.  As people filed back to the bus both drivers and the attendant urged everyone to hurry and get back on board.  They were warning everyone that the area was ‘very dangerous’!  We did what we were told and hustled back to our seats.

No matter how fancy a bus can be, 28 1/2 hours is a long trip.

Ciao, Ecuador….

Next stop - Lima